Villa Gioianna

LOCATION

Villa Gioianna is located near the shores of Lake Trasimeno, on the western edge of Umbria and a stone's throw from the Tuscan/Umbrian border.  A few kilometers away are the Etruscan town of Chiusi and its excellent train connections to all destinations on the Naples-Milan high-speed train line, including Rome, Florence and Orvieto.  Chiusi also provides convenient access to the Autostrada del Sole (the A-1 highway).  Within an hour's drive are many historic Umbrian and Tuscan hill towns such as Assisi, Arezzo, Cortona, Montepulciano, Orvieto, Pienza, Perugia, Deruta, Spello and Montalcino, as well as other less well-known, but equally charming, smaller villages.  Many of central Italy's other leading historical and cultural centers (Rome, Florence, Todi, Siena, Spoleto, Gubbio and Urbino) can be reached in less than two hours.

The nearest major airports are Rome, Pisa and Florence.  Each is about a 1½-2 hour drive away.  Bologna is a bit farther, but still feasible (approximately 2½ hours).  Perugia airport is the closest (about 40 minutes) but services only a few charter and Italian domestic flights.

The medieval town of Castiglione del Lago is the nearest market town (6 km).  Designated as one of "I Borghi più belli d'Italia" (the most beautiful towns in Italy), it sits high on an olive tree-covered promontory jutting into the west side of the lake.  The town's magnificent medieval castle and frescoed palace dominate one end of the old town center, and the 19th century church of Santa Maria Magdalena the other.  In between are a number of small shops, restaurants, cafés, bars and bakeries.  Castiglione del Lago provides easy access to the superstrada linking Perugia and eastern Umbria to Siena, Florence and western Tuscany, and is the embarkation point for one of the ferries servicing the lake islands.

SURROUNDINGS

Perhaps the most beguiling activity at Villa Gioianna is contemplating the surrounding natural beauty.  The Villa sits serenely against an achingly beautiful backdrop of centuries-old villages and great folds of countryside covered in vineyards, sunflowers and olive groves.  In the Summer, when the air is heady with the scent of rosemary, lavender, honeysuckle and jasmine, it can sometimes be difficult to abandon poolside sunbathing for other, more strenuous activities.  But just outside the Villa's gates, Umbria and Tuscany are brimming with an embarrassment of riches of art, architecture, gastronomy, and stunning landscapes.  Presented below are a few themes and suggestions - just a drop in the bucket of possibilities - of how to explore this patrimony.

Art, Architecture and History
	 
Art-filled towns and cities abound in Umbria and Tuscany.  To name just a few must-see places and exceptional works of art in Villa Gioianna's "backyard": the frescoes of Giotto and Cimabue in Assisi, Benozzo Gozzoli in Montefalco, Luca Signorelli in Orvieto and Fillipo Lippi in Spoleto.  Of particular note, given Villa Gioianna's location virtually astride the Umbria-Tuscany border, is Umbria's most important Renaissance painter, Pietro Vannucci (better known as "il Perugino"), and his school, whose works echo the scenery of Lake Trasimeno and the Val di Chiana.  His masterpieces can be admired in churches and museums located in a small circle of charming hilltop towns nearby, from Città della Pieve to Perugia.  A short drive away in the other direction, one of the crown jewels of Tuscan hill towns, Cortona, dominates the countryside from a remarkable site high above the Val di Chiana plain.  A bit farther on Arezzo offers fine architecture and Tuscan art in the works of Piero della Francesca and Cimabue.  Even many small, sleepy villages boast an art gallery, museum or church containing a priceless work of art.  In short, in leisurely day trips from Villa Gioianna, one can enjoy a large part of ancient, medieval and Italian Renaissance art, estimated to be more than 20% of the world's artistic heritage listed by UNESCO.

In addition to the obvious architectural and historical delights of Florence, Siena and Rome, history buffs may also enjoy tracing some of the other evidence of the region's varied past, such as the Etruscan ruins and tombs in and about Chiusi and Perugia, or the sites of battles ancient and modern, such as that between Hannibal and the Romans on the shores of Lake Trasimeno in 217 BC, or, more recently, that of the June-July 1944 Battle of the Trasimene Line in the towns and villages surrounding the Lake.

Outdoor Activities

Lake Trasimeno offers a number of options for sportsmen/women and naturalists.  Cyclists, equestrians and walkers will find pleasant routes to discover and explore on their own just outside the Villa's driveway, wandering up and down through olive groves, vineyards, woods and farms with views of Lake Trasimeno and Cortona on one side, Chiusi and Lake Chiusi on the other and Montepulciano and Chianciano Terme on yet another.  In the Spring, the paths meander among fields exploding with the brilliant red of poppies.  In the Summer, the colors change to the rich yellow and green of sunflowers and grain, and in the late Summer and Fall, the more mellow browns and golds of harvested bales of grain.  Bicycles and horses can be rented at several concessions in and about Castiglione del Lago; a list of these is in the reference materials in the Villa.  Maps, directions for informal local walks ranging from 2-8 hours' duration, directions to and descriptions of out-of-the-way destinations, such as little-known castles, churches, sanctuaries and villages of Trasimeno, and other useful information for individual exploring are also in the Villa reference materials.

Other sports facilities include:  a cycling route around the lake; signposted and equipped paths for walks, mountain biking, or horseback riding (both accompanied and rentals only) in and around the hills surrounding the lake; golfing on nearby courses; sailing, windsurfing, public beaches and water skiing on the lake; and tennis courts in Castiglione del Lago.  Organized river rafting, whitewater streaming, canoeing, canyoning and kayaking excursions are available on the River Nera, Lake Trasimeno, the River Tiber, and the River Corno, all a short or reasonable drive from Villa Gioianna.

A little bit more unusual are the organized caving excursions.  Umbria's mountains and hills contain a number of natural caves that can be explored with experienced guides.  In addition to exploration of natural limestone caves, some cavers offer an experience known as "urban caving," using the same techniques as those traditionally used to explore natural caves to discover the  now-hidden cultural heritage that, as early as the Etruscans, man built underneath the region's cities:  aqueducts, passages, cisterns, places of worship, and entire tunnels.  Maps of signposted bicycle and walking trails and a list and contact details for the above activities are in the Villa reference book.

Lake Trasimeno is one of the most important wetland areas in Europe for many bird species.  The La Valle Oasis at San Savino maintains a small museum on the nature and ornithology of the Lake and a walkway with observation points, and offers a short cruise on a special electric boat.s  Naturalists will delight in the variety of birds to observe at all times of year:  baldicoots, grebes, osprey, heron, little bittern and dwarf heron.  A bit further south, the Alviano Nature Reserve occupies 900 hundred hectares of wetland, lakes, marshes and hygrophilous woodland and hosts about 160 different bird species, some quite rare, including cranes, ospreys, wild geese, coots, kingfishers, grey herons, pochards, stilt-plovers, moorhens and pintail ducks.

Wildlife enthusiasts do not have to leave the Villa's property to indulge their passion.  In the trees surrounding Villa Gioianna, a number of different birds are in residence and, in the late Spring and early Summer, the dulcet tones of the nightingale's song can be heard in the morning and early evening, as can the owls' hoot and wild peacocks' call.  It is not uncommon to see hoopoes or falcons or to spot wild pheasants and hares in the neighboring vineyard in the early morning or a porcupine at night.  When the Villa's many lavender bushes bloom, butterflies, hummingbirds and bees flock to their flowers.

In the evening, fireflies appear, as do - unfortunately - the mosquitoes (bring lots of lotion and keep the screens pulled down).  As there is relatively little light pollution, on cloudless nights the stars blanket the sky with a clarity that will captivate urban dwellers.  And, when the moon is full, a late swim or stroll in the soft night air and bright moonlight can be just magical.

Food and Wine

Tradition, simplicity and the absolute highest quality ingredients are the hallmarks of Umbrian cuisine.  The kitchen is based on the fruity local olive oil and the produce from the fields and forests of which Umbria is primarily comprised.  These include many unique varieties of cultivated vegetables and cereals, such as Castelluccio lentils, "farro" (an ancient Roman cereal), "fagioline" (a small, once-forgotten bean grown near Lake Trasimeno), Colfiorito potatoes, "cicèrchie" (chickling pea, a kind of smaller, squatter chickpea), Cannara onions, Città della Pieve saffron and "sedano nero" (the dark, emerald green celery from Trevi).  The forests, pastures, rivers and lakes provide freshwater fish (including eel, perch, pike, trout and carp), wild game (particularly wild boar, but also a number of small game birds), sheep's milk for pecorino and other cheeses, honey, and pork for the region's famous cured meat specialties.  Umbria and Piedmont are the only regions in Italy where truffles are found in any quantity.  In Umbria there are two main species of "tartufo":  the robustly flavored black truffle (tartufo nero), gathered mainly around Norcia and Spoleto, and the less abundant and more delicately flavored white truffle (tartufo bianco), found primarily near Gubbio.   Truffles grow wild and are sniffed out by specially trained dogs (not pigs) from September to December.

Wines of quality are produced throughout Umbria, with 11 regions designated as controlled names of origin.  The Villa falls within the "Colli del Trasimeno" area, which produces wines from grape varieties similar to its Tuscan neighbor, i.e., Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet (reds) and Trebbiano, Grecchetto and Chardonnay (whites).  Orvieto's whites are perhaps the most famous local wines, but Umbria also produces a number of fine reds, such as the Sagrantino di Montefalco, made from Sangiovese and the indigenous Sagrantino grape, sweet wines (vin santo and passito), and pro secco.  Aficionados may choose to follow one of several "Wine Road" itineraries to sample and buy direct from the producers, visit the Umbria Regional Winery in the San Giovanni crypt in Orvieto for a wide selection of Umbrian wines, or, for a real taste of local color, take their own 5-liter jug down to the Trasimeno Cantina (wine cooperative) to pump a week's worth of good, solid table wine direct from the "gas pump" dispenser.

Guests can create Umbrian cuisine themselves in the Villa's kitchen, using seasonal produce harvested from the Villa's kitchen garden, the Villa's own olive oil, newly laid eggs delivered from the Villa's neighbor, and/or ingredients purchased at outdoor markets or from one of the recommended local suppliers.   There are several Italian- and English-language Umbrian cookbooks in the Villa's kitchen.  Informal cooking lessons of typical family dishes (handmade pici, ragù, torta al testo, carciofi fritti, pizza baked in the wood-fired oven, for example) can be arranged upon request, as can a private winetasting at a neighboring, highly regarded winery, or a "tasting" of local cheeses, meats, sauces and olive oils.  An excellent local cook is available upon request to prepare a meal or meals for guests at the Villa.  A list of recommended local suppliers and markets is in the Villa's reference book.

Or, regional cooking can be sampled in an informal atmosphere alongside local townspeople.  Throughout the Summer and early Fall, many small villages hold weekend festivals, or sagre, celebrating a particular food item - anything from polenta to watermelon to wild boar to truffles to beans might be the featured menu - and providing an excuse to eat in the open air and socialize with neighbors and friends.  Typically, large barbecues, picnic tables and a dance floor are set up in the town plaza, with a live band providing entertainment and music until late at night.  Many of the medieval pageants and celebrations in honor of local patron saints or historic events provide yet another opportunity to dine locally, as the program often includes a meal.  And, of course, traditional Umbrian cuisine is served at many good restaurants in the area.  A few entrepreneurs have taken the more maverick route of innovating with the superb local ingredients to create new dishes, with excellent results.  Guests will find restaurant recommendations, descriptions and menus in the Villa's reference book.

Finally, those wishing to educate themselves thoroughly about Umbrian food from source to table can visit the wine museum and olive oil museum in Torgiano and fishing museum in San Feliciano.

Below are some examples of the seasonal produce available from the Villa's gardens and the local food markets:

Spring:  fava beans, fennel, artichokes, strawberries, asparagus
Summer:  apricots, peaches, plums, cherries, grapes, tomatoes, zucchini, squash, melons, basil, numerous herbs
Fall:  mushrooms, porcini, truffles, chestnuts, wild game, pears, pomegranates, figs, quince, persimmons, pumpkins

Music, Culture and Folklore

Many communities maintain and pass on their local customs through folkloric groups that stage great displays of culture and folklore, mostly in the Spring and Summer.  Some events are in celebration of holy days in the Church calendar, such as the reenactment of the carrying of the cross on Good Friday or the Presepe Vivante (living nativity scene) at Christmas time, both of which take place in a number of Trasimene villages; or the live of a patron saint, such as the Corpus Domini procession in Orvieto, an historical procession in full costume and pageantry that celebrates a miracle that took place in 1264; or the Corsa dei Ceri in Gubbio, a procession and then a race through the town of three gigantic wax figures, hoisted on the shoulders of strong men.

Other festivals test medieval skills and perpetuate ancient rivalries among the districts of medieval towns, such as the Palio di Siena, a dramatic, intense horse race among the 17 district of Siena; La Giostra del Saracino in Arezzo, an ancient chivalrous jousting competition by "knights" of the wards of the city; Giostra della Quintana in Foligno, a lancing competition; the Palio dei Terzieri in Città delle Pieve, an archery contest among the three town wards; and the Palio delle Barche in Passignano sul Trasimeno, a part lake/part overland boat race among the four wards.  Castiglione del Lago heralds the Spring with the Sagra del Tulipano in early April.  In August the medieval fortress becomes the backdrop for an international folkloric dancing festival.  The spectacle at each of these festivals typically includes a full medieval or Renaissance procession in costume, with horses, banners, drums and trumpets, and with participants displaying other ancient skills, such as complicated routines of flag throwing or coordinated displays of fire-blowing.  In the evening there is often an open-air meal, a performance of folkloric dancing and fireworks.

Music festivals presenting symphonic or chamber concerts, opera and jazz take place throughout the Summer.  Perhaps the most famous is the Festival Dei Due Mondi in Spoleto, which takes places from the second half of June to the first half of July.  Close on its heels in terms of popularity is the Umbria Jazz Festival, in mid-July and at New Year's.  Based in Perugia, its venues are spread throughout the squares and parks, theaters and ancient historical buildings of this magnificent hilltop city.  Also in Perugia, in September, is the Sagra Musicale Umbra, one of the oldest classical music festivals in Europe.  From July to August, Trasimeno Blues Festival performs in the entire Trasimene area, from Passignano to Tuoro sul Trasimeno, Castiglione del Lago, Piegaro and Città della Pieve.  A full list of the dates and locations of music and folklore festivals in the Trasimeno region - plus a bit beyond - is in the Villa's reference book.

Crafts, Markets and Other Shopping

Browsing and shopping opportunities are plentiful, despite the long lunchtime closure that might frustrate those used to continuous business hours.  Possibilities range from the local weekly outdoor markets, street and flea markets and monthly antique fairs to quaint boutiques, high-end shops and designer discount outlets.  The merchants serving the weekly markets travel from town to town and arrive regularly at specific towns on specific days (Castiglione del Lago's market day is Wednesday).  These markets are a glorious mix of food, clothing, housewares, fabrics, linens, cosmetics, shoes and miscellanea.  You will not find anything precious, but there are good bargains and they are a lot of fun.  Dates and locations for weekly fairs and markets, specialized markets and antique fairs, addresses of recommended shops and a list of fashion outlet stores are in the Villa reference book.

Many craftsmen still work in the region, producing lovely, high quality and unique goods.  Listed below are just a few suggestions of traditional regional crafts and the towns and cities which specialize in them.

Handpainted ceramics:  These can be found throughout Umbria and Tuscany, but the major centers in Umbria are Deruta, Gualdo Tadino, Gubbio and Orvieto.  Of these, Deruta has the most concentrated number of shops.  There are several in the upper, old part of town (some built right into the ancient city walls), and many more on the street in the newer part of town below.  Besides dinner plates, serving pieces and other tabletop items, there are also beautiful tiles, lamps, tables, mirrors and tile paintings (the latter mostly of religious subjects).  Many shops will ship your purchases.

Textiles: Handmade fabric of linen, hemp and cotton decorated with traditional Umbrian patterns such as the griffin and the peacock are beautiful and come in a number of delicate and sunny shades reflecting the Umbrian landscape:  terracotta, yellow, soft green and pale blue.   It is sold by the yard or made up into soft furnishings, such as quilts, duvet covers, tablecloths, handtowels and lampshades.  Specialist shops and workshops (and the largest selection of goods) are centered in Perugia, Montefalco, Città di Castello and Assisi.

Furniture, antiques: The weekend monthly antiques fair in Arezzo takes over the squares, and the main pedestrian walkway, spilling down many side streets and nooks and crannies of the entire old town center.  Several hundred dealers offer a wide variety of antiques, plus on the outskirts there are craftspeople and some ethnic goods.  In addition, the many antique shops in the old town are open during the fair.  Perugia also holds a monthly antiques fair and Castiglione del Lago sponsors a (much smaller) monthly antiques and bric-a-brac market.  Many other towns hold periodic antiques fairs, such as the April fair in Todi.